Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to scale all 14 highest peaks without oxygen support
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He achieved this milestone on Sunday by reaching the summit of Kangchenjunga
(Web Desk) – Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan has made history by becoming the first from his country to summit all 14 of the world’s highest mountains—each towering above 8,000 metres—without the use of supplemental oxygen.
He achieved this milestone on Sunday by reaching the summit of Kangchenjunga, standing at 8,586 metres.
A native of Hunza Valley, Sirbaz completed his latest climb at 11:50 a.m. local time, wrapping up a remarkable journey that began in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat. Although he had previously completed all 14 summits, he had used bottled oxygen on two occasions. Determined to meet his original goal of climbing all peaks without artificial oxygen, he returned in 2024 to re-attempt Annapurna in April and Kangchenjunga in May—this time successfully without oxygen aid.
“When I started this journey after summiting Nanga Parbat, my goal was clear: all 14×8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen,” he earlier said while arriving at Annapurna. “That’s why I came back.”
Globally, only around 70 climbers have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and fewer than 25 have done so without any oxygen assistance, making Sirbaz part of an elite and incredibly resilient group of mountaineers.
Over the years, he has steadily built an impressive resume. He became the first Pakistani to scale Lhotse in 2019, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in 2021, and Makalu in 2022—all without oxygen. He also led multiple expeditions, including all-Pakistani teams to peaks like Gasherbrum I and II.
In 2023, he summited Cho Oyu, and in October 2024, he completed Shishapangma, marking his 14th and final peak. His commitment to re-climbing the two previously oxygen-assisted peaks elevates his record to one of the most distinguished in Pakistan’s mountaineering history.
